Welcome!

Welcome to Baedeker, and to our returning members, welcome back!

Our first meetings of the year will be on Wednesday, September 17 at 6:15pm in GCASL 275 and Thursday, September 18 at 3:30pm in Kimmel 405.

At the meetings, we’ll introduce ourselves a bit more, talk about our plans for this year, and tell you more about the brief application for editors and the submission process.

Hope to see you there!

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Great Eats South of the Seine

Café de Flore

Je voudrais un café, s’il vous plaît!

Take a trip to Saint-Germain-des-Prés in the 6th arrondissement of Paris to experience Café de Flore, a restaurant that has been around since the 1880’s and continues to be a hot spot for intellectuals and artists alike. Since its creation, literature greats, film legends, and fashion icons, such as Albert Camus, Jean-Paul Sartre, Brigitte Bardot, and Paul Lagerfeld have frequented the café. Today the cafe still attracts an elite clientele, from Sonia Rykiel and her daughter to Al Pacino and Robert de Niro. The attraction comes as no surprise, for the menu is extensive and offers all of the French cafe classics, from French onion soup to croque monsieur. The only flaw is in the prices, where thirteen euros will get you a small plate of cooked string beans. Yet it is hard not to caught up in the excitement of the café, where the waiters are accustomed to a never-ending swarm of customers and crowded spaces; in fact, they thrive in this environment and are fast paced and efficient. Whether you sit outside or inside, you’ll spend the afternoon feeling like a real Parisian.

172 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
Open everyday from 7am to 2pm

La Jacobine
In the heart of the Latin Quarter, tucked away into a small pedestrian street in the Cour du Commerce you will come across this hidden gem, La Jacobine. The restaurant has the decor of a French country kitchen, and upon entering, it is easy to feel as if you have just been welcomed into someone’s home. The gourmet salads are surprisingly large, piled high with fresh vegetable ingredients and meat that is cooked to a tee. The pastries are equally divine. If you are a fruit lover be sure to try the Crumble aux fruits rouges (Berry crumble) or the Macaronade aux framboises (raspberry macaronade). The atmosphere is warm and inviting, making it the perfect place to spend hours in with a chocolat chaude (hot chocolate) and a good book. If you’re lucky, you may even get served by waiter that bares a resemblance to Beatle’s guitarist George Harrison.

59 Rue Saint-André des Arts, 75006 Paris
Open Monday 5pm-11:30pm
Tuesday-Sunday 12pm-11:30pm

Les Deux Abeilles

Right near the Champ de Mars and the Eiffel Tower in the 7th arrondissement is Les Deux Abeilles, which means the two bumblebees. Located in one of the touristiest areas in all of Paris, this café is an unlikely refreshing find, tucked away on a quiet street with its simple green awnings and quaint furnishings. Exquisite desserts are colorfully displayed on a cart by the entrance, and the menu abounds with fresh ingredients, savory vegetarian options, and a long list of teas with pots that seem to be never-ending. The café is composed of three rooms with cozy and eclectic Parisian décor: floral wallpaper, potted plants, and a lattice ceiling that lets in streams of light making this lunch nook a corner of paradise! With a predominantly female clientele, Les Deux Abeilles is the perfect place for families and friends to get together to indulge in an afternoon of tea and tarts.

189 Rue Université, 75007 Paris
Open from Monday to Saturday 9am to 7pm

Restaurant at the Musée d’Orsay

C’est magnifique, les lustres!

This restaurant is on the second floor of the Musée d’Orsay, a museum that has been transformed from an old train station and is in itself a work of art. The lines to enter the restaurant (as well as the museum) can be long, but once inside you are thrust into a world of exquisite beauty. Chandeliers line the outer perimeter of the ceiling, which is covered in a mural of angels floating in a cloudy sky, painted in blues, purples and pinks. The moldings are ornate with gold detailing, and the large windows make the room come alive with light. This restaurant is definitely a splurge, but the traditional French inspired cuisine is flavorful and inventive. Have you ever had an egg poached in red wine? In addition, the staff is fast moving as they clear tables and seat guests, sending orders straight to the kitchen with portable electronic devices to ensure that the meals will be delivered in the fasted possible time.

Musée d’Orsay, 1 Rue de Bellechasse, 75007 Paris
Lunch from 11:45am to 2:30pm
Salon de Thé 3:30pm to 5:30pm
Dinner 7pm-9:30pm
Closed on Mondays

Berthillon
If tea and ice cream are what you crave then this “salon de thé” (tea house) is the perfect place to go. With a history that dates back to 1954 , the original Berthillon café is located on the Île Saint-Louis and is famous for its ice creams and sorbets. Going to Berthillon is an experience that that will wow you. Everything inside the café, from the walls and the seats to the fresh flowers and waiters’ uniforms, are decked out in purples. Even the vintage carnival masks that rest behind glass display cases are painted to match. Be sure to try the Peach Melba, which is smothered in whipped cream, raspberry sauce and pistachios, or the salty butter caramel ice cream. Also, don’t be surprised if you spot French celebrities taking dessert to go; Daniel Auteuil and his young son have been known to frequent this sweet shop.

29-31 Rue Saint-Louis en l’île, 75004 Paris
Open Wednesday to Sunday 10am-8pm

Story and Photos by Claire Schmidt

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Tel Aviv: The City and the Beach

NYU Tel Aviv was truly a unique semester. Tel Aviv is a beach city with a cosmopolitan city life, and year-round sun. Its cosmopolitan aura gives it the name of “The New York of the Middle East.” The city of Tel Aviv is culturally and politically enriching, from learning about the current conflict to visiting contemporary art museums, it is almost impossible to feel bored there.

Tel Aviv - Hayley Winograd

Tel Aviv at dusk looking onto the beach

People often ask me what my favorite part about NYU Tel Aviv was, and one of the first things that comes to mind is the café culture. When I wasn’t learning about the politics of the Middle East or seeing a new film in the Israeli Cinema course NYU offers, I was at one of the local cafes drinking a cappuccino or eating shakshuka (the delicious Israeli egg dish). One café in particular to pay a visit to is Café Movieing. Its originality of style and large (and delicious) variety of meals makes this possibly one of the best spots to study, get a bite, or hang out in for hours—in the morning, for lunch, or at night if you want to grab a late nightcap upstairs in the bar area. And, if you’re a movie buff, this place is also movie themed, (if you couldn’t already tell from its title) with DVDs covering the walls with a big TV upstairs as well.

If you’re looking to escape the scene of urban excitement or modern restaurants, the ancient port city of Jaffa is a 15 minute bus ride away and is filled with markets, museums, and landmarks. Nonetheless, because Tel Aviv is made up of so many various neighborhoods (each one with it’s own character), there will always be a new place to explore.

Much of the Tel Aviv culture revolves around the beach, as the city lies along the Mediterranean coastline. The constant sun and lively mentality furthermore gives it the name as “the city that never sleeps.” After a day of taking advantage of Tel Aviv’s vibrant shopping life, or eating at one of the many restaurants with food from all over the world, the nightlife offers both quaint bars or 24 hour clubs as well. Tel Aviv is a liberal and accepting city, which is a large part of the reason so many tourists flock here. The diverse and beautiful city has so much to offer, with a fascinating history surrounding its evolution as perhaps one of the most exciting cities in the world.

Story and Photo by Hayley Winograd

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Modernity is History

Berlin is a modern city. It has new buildings and neighborhoods that are being expanded every day. But Berlin is also a historic city. Not historic in the sense of most of the cities in Europe with their ancient ruins or centuries old buildings; Berlin’s newness is its history. Since so much of Berlin had to be rebuilt after World War II, the new architecture is a painful reminder of the horrors happened. The new architecture isn’t the only reminder, there are some remnants of what once was – the remaining sections of the Berlin wall, an old church that was destroyed and never restored to its former glory, and tourist attractions like Checkpoint Charlie. When I was in Berlin, I saw all of these old pieces of what once occurred.

Berlin

View of Berlin on a sunny day

As I toured the city with a German friend of mine, it was obvious to see how difficult some of the reminders of what her country had done were for her and how some she had become so desensitized to some. I remember solemnly walking along the East Side Gallery (sections of the Berlin wall that have been painted by artists from all over the world) and being moved – along with her – almost to tears by some of the murals demonstrating destruction and pain that people suffered in Berlin and all of Europe because of the actions of her people. I also remember playing a silly game of hide and seek in the Holocaust memorial – a park full of large cement blocks of varying heights that represent the graves of those who lost their lives. The grief that my friend, and many other Berliners that I met, is similar to our own grief and shame around our wrongdoings as Americans – the internment of Japanese-Americans during WWII is one pertinent example. The feeling of sadness and embarrassment of atrocities inflicted on others is something that can bond all cultures and peoples together even if the reminders are more difficult to find than they are in Berlin.

Story and Photo by Courney Colburn

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The Paris Métro

Sweat was dripping down my temples as I stood squished between the business men and women on their

Sacre Coeur

The Sacre-Coeur Basilica in Paris, France

way to work and tourists with their oversized suitcases headed to the airport. My hands were slipping down the pole in the middle of the tiny little car that was already overflowing with perspiring, malodorous people. The doors had been open for at least twenty five minutes. Were we ever going to leave?

The metro often went on strike during the summer that I worked in Paris. I actually knew the Paris metro was going on strike that morning, but that didn’t make the experience any more pleasant. In order to get to work each morning, I dutifully boarded the metro. The RER usually left at least four times an hour from Gare du Nord, but that particular morning, the frequency of trains slowed to a trickle, and I must have waited an hour on the stinky, smoldering train. Mais, c’est normal! Ils font la grève! (But it’s normal! The Parisians always strike!)

Yes, it is “normal,” at least in France, for municipal organizations to strike. Don’t let it get to you. Just appreciate the esprit of the French. You’re bound to run into la grève, French for strike, when visiting Paris. Fortunately, French unions plan well in advance, always announcing their plans prior to holding up everyone’s day. 

Had I been any other tourist taking the train to the airport, I would have loathed the Paris metro system, but every time I’ve been to the city of lights, it has been my reliable mode of transport. I could trust the metro’s consistency and its sprawling nexus of rail lines making travel in Paris a breeze. Oftentimes in New York, I long for the Paris metro. My experiences with the generally loyal, swift, and ubiquitous metro outweighed its lack of performance that fateful day; my faith persisted.

 

Eiffel Tower

The Eiffel Tower lit up at night

The Paris metro transports over 4.5 million people a day and contains about 300 stations.  But don’t be alarmed–it’s extremely easy to use and well-designed. Most lines operate from 5:20 a.m. through 1:20 a.m. (Saturdays until 2:20 a.m.). Once in the car, anticipate about two minutes of travel time between each stop. A single ride only costs €1.60, and the nature of your stay in Paris will dictate how you utilize the metro and its many passes. 

For only a few trips on the metro, it’s best to buy tickets, or billets, as needed. If you plan on using the metro often, but don’t want to buy a weekly or monthly pass, buy tickets in bulk. Ask for a carnet, a pack of ten tickets great for sharing with friends or family, at the ticket counter (billetterie or guichet) and you’ll save a few Euros. Individual tickets and carnets can also be bought from automatic ticket machines (don’t fret, instructions are available in English); however, these machines typically only take coins or credit cards. Don’t bother using a credit card as American cards don’t have micro-chips in them, so the French machines won’t recognize them.

For extended stays in Paris, you’ll save money by buying a weekly or monthly metro pass. The cost of both the weekly pass, hebdomadaire, and the monthly, mensuel, increase as you add the number of zones, there are a total of six, in your travel range. Most sights are located within zones one and two. A weekly pass for these two zones is €17.20, while a monthly pass is €56.60. Weekly passes are valid from Monday to Sunday; monthly passes for a calendar month. These passes can be bought from any ticket office, located underground at the entrance of most metro stations. Ask for a Carte Orange, also known as a Passe Navigo. Most passes are now magnetic, so you can wave it in front of the turnstile, instead of swiping it. You’ll have to attach a small photo of yourself to the pass (photo booths are found in most stations).

La Seine

A view of the Seine River running through the city of Paris

 

Really, the metro spells ease and entertainment. Never has there been a better place for people watching: beggars, musicians, comedians, tourists, students, business people and more all unite underground in Paris. Take advantage of the cheap transport and enjoy the humorous situations that arise from time to time.

After a two-hour commute that sultry summer morning, I eventually made it to work, albeit an hour before lunch. I was exhausted and in need of another shower, but I made it. My boss didn’t even chastise me. Oh la la, la grève ! Don’t worry about it. C’est normal!

Story by Catherine Courtney Glenn and Photos by Elizabeth Gyon

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Berlin Bound

Fernsehturn

The Fernsehturm standing tall behind the majestic Berlin Dome

Berlin is like heaven on Earth—a city with a colorful past and a thriving future. It was not always heaven on Earth, but it has succeeded in rising from the ashes (literally) and becoming a multi-cultural epicenter heading towards a bright future while keeping pieces of the past intact. I believe David Bowie said it best when he described Berlin as “the greatest cultural extravaganza that one could imagine.”

Berlin is a place where the present is an everyday reminder of what happened in the past. The people of Berlin have perseverance, just like the city itself. It is crucial to visit the Holocaust Memorial, right near the Brandenburg Gate, which is open 24 hours a day. It is a maze that is designed with varying sizes of stone slabs. When you walk through it, you will essentially feel alone, lost and confused, just as the Holocaust prisoners did when they were taken to the concentration camps. American artist Peter Eisenman even encourages people to walk around it late at night to experience the full impact of the design.

Holocaust Museum

Inside the maze of the Berlin Holocaust Museum

But there are plenty of other amazing things to do and try here—especially the chocolate. It’s also absolutely essential that everyone take a stroll around East Berlin at night. Remnants of wartime graffiti still remain, and there are some interesting drawings to be marveled at. In a way, visiting these sites feels like time traveling. And after a long, cold day of exploring, underneath the TV tower is a 24-hour döner kebab place where you must go have döner (lamb) kebab and hot chocolate.  The weather in Berlin may be brutal, but the city’s charm and culture have the capability of warming hearts—and if not, the hot chocolate most certainly will.

Unter den Linden’s tree-lined street showcases some of the most beautiful architecture in Berlin as well as great shopping and Humboldt University. From here, it is easy to find Berlin’s premiere museums, including Museum Island, which houses the Pergamon Museum, and the Jewish Museum, which was designed by architect Daniel Liebeskind, winner of the 2003 competition to become master plan architect for the reconstruction of the World Trade Center.

Unter den Linden

Unter den Linden street sign in front of the TV Tower

“Ich bin ein Berliner:” the famous line uttered by John F. Kennedy. The very spot where he stood can be seen at Rathaus Schöneberg. Also, there are tourist attractions like the Fernsehturm in Alexanderplatz (TV tower) and the East Side Gallery, which houses art from the remains of the Berlin Wall.  Another place to visit is the Reichstag building which seats Germany’s parliament.  Its dome is an iconic ode to modern architecture. 

But let me throw you for a loop. Have you ever heard of gypsy punk? Kaffee Burger is a true landmark for gypsy punk lovers.  It’s the place to go for some outlandish fun and to hear some unusual music, like the accordion. This is only the beginning of what Berlin has to offer. It truly is a unique experience to everyone who visits. There may be many misconceptions about Berlin, but if good food, nice people, history, and adventure are what you seek, then look no further than Berlin.

Story and Photos by Brianna Bisogno

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Vermont

Vermont. For me, it always sounded like a sort of idyllic farm place: people on bikes, bearded men abundant, maple syrup, plaid shirts, granola–that kinda stuff. But during fall break in early October, I discovered there’s a lot more to northern Vermont; there’s a special kind of heartiness both in the land and in the local character.

Farm in Vermont

A countryside farm near Lake Champlain

I stayed with a friend in Leicester, a small town twenty or so minutes from Middlebury College. This is a nine hour Greyhound drive from the city, and for pretty much the same price, a one hour Jetblue plane flight. Turns out paradise isn’t that far after all. Having grown up in southern California, I realized once I arrived in New York that I had no prior notion of what seasons were supposed to be like. However, I thought that after three years in the city I understood what autumn was like from my trips to Central Park. No, no, this was quite naïve, I soon realized.

I was in complete awe of the red and gold hues of the hills hugging Lake Champlain (although granted, I visited on one of the undoubtedly most beautiful autumnal weekends on the east coast). The landscape and breadth of colors in autumnal New England really is mind blowing in comparison to anything accessible in Manhattan. Seeing the fluffs of yellow and orange that cling to the maples and oaks alongside fields and farmland was awe-inducing. The landscape and beautiful old red barns and farms nestled between forests were remarkable and a needed change from Manhattan’s skyscrapers.

Vermonters pride themselves in their local and organic produce, as they should. Most of the families I met in the surrounding Middlebury and Burlington area had their own farm, or at least a dozen chickens, vegetable patch, and access within walking distance to fresh milk, cheese, and maple syrup. This fall break I tried for the first time fresh maple syrup, cider donuts, pumpkin butter, and blackberry beer. What better place to feast on these delicacies then on a picnic with dragonflies hovering below and turkey vultures above. And eating honey crisp apples you picked yourself, surrounded by hills glowing – I’m sorry, but the Central Park pumpkin patch does not match this. Alas, not even Prospect Park can compete.

Produce in Vermont

Fresh produce from local farms in Vermont

Maybe I’d been spending too much time getting caught up in New York City traffic, rooftop parties, and overall pretension to realize how much I was in desperate need to spend time with down-to-earth artistic folk. Both those I met in Burlington–which has a surprisingly lively indie music, literature, and bar scene- and those I got to know who lived a quarter mile from the next house, were generous and proud of their liberal and environmentally conscious ways. Sculptors with their own studio barn, folk Americana musicians playing at local bakeries, college students who spend their weekend nights drinking and stargazing on a trampoline by a fire pit; all was so refreshing. I know as an NYUer, you may be skeptical that Vermont is like the boonies, brimming with bearded lumberjacks and dead cell phone zones, but dear reader, I insist, it’s magical up there.

Story and Photos by Olaya Barr

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